We started in the Joint Security Area (JSA) where the United Nations forces and the People's Republic of Korea both faced off, literally from across the street. We were shown famous buildings and had a brief history lesson on the Korean War.
Our introductory slideshow.I didn't know much about the war, or what events set it up. From what I gathered, the Korean peninsula was divided (arbitrarily, of course) at the 38th parallel after being annexed from Japan following World War II. The northern half was the USSR's responsibility, and the southern portion was for the USA to help rebuild. Obviously the North became communist while the South matured with a democratic government. In 1950 North Korea lauched a surprise attack on the South, and pushed their forces all the way to Busan. It wasn't until 1953 that UN soldiers were able to push back North Korean forces to about the 38th parallel, and the war entered a stalemate that persists today. Officially they're still at war--it's pretty common knowledge that they have the longest standing cease-fire order in history.
The day the war 'ceased.'I guess I didn't realize how recently the Japanese occupation was, or how recently Korea began to develop as an independent nation. There was a restaurant I went to, the oldest restaurant in the area, that boasted it's service since 1953. That has a lot more meaning now; I don't think there *are* any Seoul restaurants from before 1953.
In any case, we were mostly told stories about how absolutely insane and prideful the North Koreans are. We were warned not to communicate with them in any way, and signed waivers stating we could die and that we were okay with that. Most of the information we got is available on wikipedia (and in more detail), so I'll hit the highlights through pictures.
Careful, landmines in the rough.
Tour buses are starting to grow on me.
Watching them watch me right now.
Our group moves for the meeting room that spans the border.
It was unnerving standing next to these soldiers. Talk about stoic.
Pssh, tourists.
Half covered for protection. The shades are part of the uniform, but only here. For intimidation.
Our American soldier guide. He's from Colorado.
Guard post 3, I think. Axe murder incident went down here. Gruesome.
Bridge of No Return. So named for the prisoner exchanged that happened here. You were safe once across, actually.
Propaganda City on the North side. A 31 m flag flies there, but no one lives there.
The EAPSI crew, all limbs accounted for.
Their idea of what the DMZ meant was...interesting.The Republic of Korea soldiers there seemed very well trained and disciplined. They held that rock stance the whole time we were there. I mean, c'mon, aviators as part of your uniform and you're called the ROK forces? I wouldn't mess with those guys.
We zoomed in on the North Koreans across the way, and they seemed...goofy. I don't know, their uniforms seemed dirty, and one of them was slack-jawed while he watched us through binoculars. The South Korean side was noticeably cleaner and more organized.
The second part of the tour took us to one of the underground tunnels the People's Republic of Korea (PRK) were digging. They were crazy enough to paint the walls black when discovered, then claim the South Korean did it. The black paint was to make it look like a coal mine, and the South Korea did it approach was instantly dispelled because of the drain angle of the tunnel and the direction of the blast marks.
The museum associated with the tunnel was strange. The South Koreans made a big deal about the natural preservation of the DMZ and how it symbolized hope. Then it went on to explain how they put white rocks in the chainlink fence to catch people trying to cross over. If you tried to scale the fence, the rocks would fall to the ground and patrolling soldiers could easily spot them on the ground. The video they showed was also pretty heavy on the konglish, which is wear the post title came from.
The last thing we saw was the Gyeongui line station. It's a functional Korail stop that runs from near my school in Sinchon all the way through Pyongyang and into China. Continuing with the Asian tradition of symbolism, it's a very large and modern building inspired by the shape of the red-blue circle on the Korean flag. The waviness is supposed to represent two hands holding each other, the unification of the divided Koreas. The tour guide was good about explaining the significance of all this, but it still seems like most of this effort is one way. I'm glad it's not something I really have to worry about. But even so close to Seoul, it seems like not many South Koreans worry about it, either.
The functional but unused station, meant to connect the capitols of North and South Korea.
We zoomed in on the North Koreans across the way, and they seemed...goofy. I don't know, their uniforms seemed dirty, and one of them was slack-jawed while he watched us through binoculars. The South Korean side was noticeably cleaner and more organized.
The second part of the tour took us to one of the underground tunnels the People's Republic of Korea (PRK) were digging. They were crazy enough to paint the walls black when discovered, then claim the South Korean did it. The black paint was to make it look like a coal mine, and the South Korea did it approach was instantly dispelled because of the drain angle of the tunnel and the direction of the blast marks.
The museum associated with the tunnel was strange. The South Koreans made a big deal about the natural preservation of the DMZ and how it symbolized hope. Then it went on to explain how they put white rocks in the chainlink fence to catch people trying to cross over. If you tried to scale the fence, the rocks would fall to the ground and patrolling soldiers could easily spot them on the ground. The video they showed was also pretty heavy on the konglish, which is wear the post title came from.
The last thing we saw was the Gyeongui line station. It's a functional Korail stop that runs from near my school in Sinchon all the way through Pyongyang and into China. Continuing with the Asian tradition of symbolism, it's a very large and modern building inspired by the shape of the red-blue circle on the Korean flag. The waviness is supposed to represent two hands holding each other, the unification of the divided Koreas. The tour guide was good about explaining the significance of all this, but it still seems like most of this effort is one way. I'm glad it's not something I really have to worry about. But even so close to Seoul, it seems like not many South Koreans worry about it, either.
The functional but unused station, meant to connect the capitols of North and South Korea.
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